Problem: asteroids and ship, etc. When I put the game into test mode, the cross-hatch is not quite right.. The box around the cross-hatch looks fine.. Fix : Try adjusting the BIP pots on the game board. Problem: Corrupted Video Despite the fact that the self test thinks nothing is wrong, the board's video output is very corrupted.
It appears that the X-axis is being properly reproduced, but vertically the vectors are distorted and only seem to appear in five horizontal strips, each about 1 cm tall. This makes the self test crosshatch appear as several strips of saw-toothed lines. The game logic works fine, as a game can be played and heard normally, albeit with corrupted video. Fix : The problem was in the y axis counter on the logic board. Replace all the ALS's in the y axis circuitry I think there are 3.
Another tip is to go to Radio Shack and buy a can of freeze spray. While the game is on and someone is watching the screen give each chip in the y axis circuitry area a good blast one at a time. If anything on the screen changes at all, replace the chip.
I found my bad chip by holding my finger on each chip on the board hold it on for about 10 seconds , if any logic chip is warm, replace it. Fix : Sounds to me like you have a bad D-A converter. But maybe you only have a few missing address lines to the D-A. The least significant 8 lines to the D-A come from a 74LS latch at location B10 thru status board or B11 or board. Problem: fold over on both left and right edges.
Fix : Reduce the X output on the main pcb. Tiny pot, labeled X size. Flip the black slide switch into the test mode located on top of the cash box, or on the right side of the inside wall of the cabinet this will give you a cross hatch pattern inside a box.
Adjust the box so it just touches the edges of the picture tube. The "BIP" adjustments ensure that the lines are correct diagonally What you will see when you switch a board into test mode with the broken Asteroids board is a more intense white beam across the bottom of the screen. That fixed the problem when I replaced these two parts. M6 receives the scaling signals from K6 memory data latch.
Special thanks to Jess Askey, jess magenta. Problem: Fluctuating Picture and squeel: From vector list : Fix suggested not tested : Have you checked the HV diode between the transformer and the picture tube?
Use Freeze spray on it -- if it works, that's the problem. Problem: Sometimes explosions are short, horizontal or vertical lines instead of the normal collection of dots:. Fix : Caused by one or more faulty 74LSN counters at in the '9' column — rev 04 board or earlier or 10 column on a rev 05 board or later.
Note: the numbers in brackets represent the locations on revision 05 and later boards.. Problem: Diagonal line emanating from one asteroid. Problem: Display only visible in a very narrow vertical band in centre of screen, some activity can just be seen in the band revision 04 board.
Fix: TL op amp at C12 had been removed, as well as the two capacitors at C98 and C pf radial lead epoxy dipped V Mica capacitors. Problem: Onscreen objects and text consistently flick between normal size and about four times larger, also extra spurious lines and explosions.
Problem: Game played but nothing on the screen except for a general glow that varied as the game was played blind, X and Y outputs were erratic. Fix: CT voltage regulator at VR2 was bad — replaced. Problem: Corrupt graphics — in game mode all graphics were split down the middle horizontally and the two halves were then drawn besides each other.
In test mode, only two vertical lines and a diagonal line were visible revision 04 board. Used a logic comparator and saw that this highlighted the at C9 as being faulty. Fix: Replaced 74LS at C9. In game mode, watchdog constantly resets, LEDs flickering rapidly, cannot play game.
Pin 13 on D9 was High should be pulsing and putting a logic comparator on this IC showed it was faulty. Replaced this and test mode was more recognisable, ie there was an outline, and the diamond test pattern was partly drawn, mostly in the lower left and upper right corners. The DIP switch position indicators were also present, but were about four times too large.
So checked out the Vector Timer circuitry handles the Scaling for one thing and found that pin 5 of the LS at D7 was High should be pulsing. The logic comparator indicated that a number of the outputs of this IC were faulty, so it was replaced. The portion of this board which feels sketchy to me is that the end connector looks like the very top pin could be slightly melted. It appears that work has been done to try to fix this in the past.
I'll assume those parts are working until proven guilty in a court of law. Here are some shots of the board, with questions to follow. What other parts would you pre-order? The melting of that connecting pin, what are people's thoughts on this? Is it fine? Should I be concerned that it even looks like that, and therefore investigate some other area of the board given someone's expert advice? This all reminds me how much I need to fix my Asteroids Deluxe that let out the good smoke a while ago.
Looks like you are having fun! PCB pics continued I've posted a link to this thread on the KLOV forums to get some additional eyes on this. Thanks to JoshBrown80 Quote. One piece of advice I'll give you is: get extra fuses. Inevitably some will blow. I would personally get two boxes of each rating five fuses to a box. Need a monitor "cap kit"? Click Here! Quote from: SirPeale on January 13, , am. Quote from: Level42 on January 13, , pm. I've read online that to test a bridge rectifier, it's just 4 diodes, which essentially restrict electrical flow to one direction.
The test to check a diode is to set the meter to ohms, and ensure there is an infinite change in one direction, while the other direction stays around zero. Set the meter to continuity beep, red probe on the very top of the bridge and the black on the surrounding heat sink and got no beep.
This is probably a good thing meaning that it was properly installed, since it's not touching the metal heat sink because of the pad under it. Therefore, my heatsink is either coated with something non-conductive, or my meter is weak, or the heatsink is non-conductive which I find hard to believe , or lastly I just did something wrongly while testing.
Looking at Q3 which is currently attached to the board, I am puzzled on how I access these diodes. There are two nuts on the top which secure it to the heat sink, then two soldier posts underneath the location, along with two screws, which I assume are the posts for the nuts above.
My bridge rectifier appears to have a thin rubber like surface between the base holder and the heat sink, and I assume the whole thing somehow pulls off. When it's off, I also assume I'll have access to the diodes.
Can anyone point me in the direction of testing the diodes and explain how this things comes off, or even if I need to take it off to test it? OK, last post is incorrect. Looking up how to test transistors, it appears that it is testing out correctly according to the guidelines I've found.
The bridge rectifier mentioned is on the Power Block. I am now looking into how to test this to make sure it's ok. At this point, I'm probably going to make an order for the parts mentioned above and see where I get.
Possibly this weekend I'll discharge the monitor and start that list of parts rolling. Next on my list of things to do is start to figure out what needs done on the monitor, so I can place another order. I figure fixing the above list will keep me busy for a bit. EDIT: Updated order to include proper harness adapter and pins, plus shipping costs. I've also cleaned all the parts mentioned earlier, so I'm ready to go when the parts arrive.
Parts arrived from Bob Roberts on Thursday. Everything was pretty straight forward, though the hardest part was recapping the PCB due to the close proximity of all the small components. There was also solder on both sides of the PCB which was unexpected, but I quickly figured that out.
The PCB Edge repair went pretty well. I removed all the old solder with a soldering braid to see how bad the damage was underneath. Locating a better scan of the asteroids manual was key in being able to read the ID numbers overlayed on the circuit board. Does Bob sell the items listed under Local Retailer? Am I better of finding those parts locally? Are there any things to look out for when purchasing those items locally?
It's not fried, but was near the burnt component. What about replacing any of the parts around the other burnt diode, CR3? Thanks again! Last edited: Jan 13, I was actually referring to the housing for the harness where it hooks to the edge connector. Those pins lose tension over time and then people add solder to the pads on the board to make them connect At least that I can remember I'm gonna have to look at the pictures again Those diodes should be a Fry's or similar item by the way If you have a meter, you could try to set it to the continuity beeb setting and touch the red lead of the meter to the transistor case, and the black lead to the heatsink.
If the meter beeps, the the transistor is bad and thats a starting place It could have been replaced inproperly and the insulating mica might not have been put under it Let me look at the schematic a bit more I would still post on the repair section of the forum Now I could be barking up the wrong tree I was just working on electronic gadgets all day at work and sometimes I get too many different things going through my head lol Thanks so much for your quick replies!
As far as testing goes, You should be able to kinda check the power brick for the obvious stuff Make sure your Bridge rectifier is good, clean the fuse holders, replace the big blue cap.
Those diodes should be a Fry's or similar item by the way. Set the meter to continuity beep, red probe on the very top of the bridge and the black on the surrounding heat sink and got no beep.
Hopefully I can bring the monitor back to life, and with such little burn, the tube looks to be good. Hello big blue! First order of business will be to take the PS out of there and give it a good cleaning and recappin'.
Original Asteroids PCB. Looks to be in good condition. I didn't inspect it fully, but at first glance there wasn't any burns or damage that i could see. Just a lot of dust. The sound board connections look shotty. Like all the internals, we're going to have to pull this out and fix 'em up!
All in all, there is a lot of work to be done to get this going. But it will definitely get a lot of use in the office, and it's a classic cabinet that deserves to be brought back to it's glory-days!
I plan on going full-boar on this one in the new year, and am going to hold off on my Robotron restore till I can at least get the internals working on this one. The Artcade blog.
Did a bit more looking around in the cabinet, found some labels and a small chip-box of these: I'll have to bring up the manual schematics and see what these guys are.
Board rev I presume. It's got a G in it. Here's a shot of the monitor neck. Really dirty. Tube labels. Lots of plays! Game plays blind, monitor has neck glow, spot-killer is lit. When turning up the brightness I get squiggly lines and a bright dot in the center of the screen. Possibly PCB isn't quite right yet.
Make me an offer! Bring that back and you've earned a beer from me! Still, that looks like a big project to resurrect. Good luck! Quote from: drventure on December 13, , pm. Quote from: opt2not on December 13, , pm. Quote from: Spyridon on December 14, , am. Quote from: Rick on December 14, , pm. Quote from: saleem on December 14, , pm. Quote from: Silas son of Silas on July 01, , pm. I emptied the cabinet for cleaning during my lunch-break yesterday. Got a better look at the parts and their condition.
Gonna rebuild and clean-up these: Here's a better look at the monitor. The burn really isn't that bad: Hmm, I thought the CP's were in better condition, but it looks like the front edges are pretty scratched up. I just wiped it all down, I'm going to do a more deep cleaning to see if I can get the buttons more white: A more thorough look at the PCB shows that there is a little bit of burn on the edge connection.
I'll clean this up when I get to it, but if that's the extent of the damage, I'm pretty happy with it:. Quote from: opt2not on December 18, , pm. Is that an overlay on the control panels or is the artwork screened onto the panel?
If you can scan the panels, Rich at TOG can re-screen them directly on the panel but yours look like you may get away with just a touch up. When I took the glass off, more of the art flaked off. It feels really brittle as well. Arcadeshop has an underlay that looks to be a decent replacement.
It's printed on what looks like a transparent acetate.
0コメント